Mini Squirtle Squad Crochet Pattern

I haven't been crocheting so much lately, I've actually been on a cross stitching kick - but during Squirtle community day I had to make a pattern!  I've got it pretty much perfected (I think!).  I forewent safety eyes on this one, and instead used stiff felt and felt glue to make him those classic Squirtle Squad sunglasses!  I had to make Ash's squirtle, of course, because his glasses are way cooler than the round ones.  You can make whatever shape glasses you'd like, as well as use safety eyes instead!  

Materials

White felt

Stiff black felt

Felt glue

Scissors

Poly-fil or other soft toy stuffing

Yarn needle

3 mm crochet hook

Brown yarn*

Cream yarn*

White yarn*

Sky blue yarn*

*These colors are for a regular squirtle.  For shiny squirtle you will need green, very light blue, white and cream yarn.  All yarn used was Red Heart brand, worsted weight.

Crochet Terms

MR- Magic Ring
SC - Single crochet
INC - Increase
DEC - Decrease
PC - Popcorn Stitch
F/O - Finish off
Sl St - Slip Stitch
DC - Double Crochet
FLO - Front loops only
Number in "( )" at the end of each line is the total number of stitches that should be on that row

Work this pattern in ROUNDS.

Head (in BLUE yarn)

Row 1: Magic Ring 6 (6)

Row 2: *INC* 6 times (12)

Row 3: *SC, INC* 6 times (18)

Row 4: *SC, SC, INC* 6 times (24)

Row 5: 24 SC (24)

Row 6: 24 SC (24)

Row 7: 24 SC (24)

Row 8: *SC, SC, DEC* six times (18)

Row 9: *SC, DEC* 6 times (12)

Finish off leaving sphere open, with a tail to sew the head to the body later.

Arms (in BLUE yarn)

Row 1: MR 4 (4)

Row 2: SC, INC, SC, INC (6)

Row 3: SC 6 (6)

Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing later.  Make two arms.

Feet (in BLUE yarn)

Row 1: MR 4 (4)

Row 2: *INC* 4 times (8)

Row 3: *SC, INC* 4 times (12)

Row 4: SC 12 (12)

Row 5: *SC, DEC* 4 times (8)

Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing later.  Make two feet.

Shell (in BROWN yarn *GREEN if shiny*)

Row 1: MR 5 (5)

Row 2: *INC* 5 times (10)

Row 3: SC 10 (10)

Switch to WHITE yarn

Row 4: Work in FLO *SC, INC* 5 times (15)

Row 5: *SC, SC, INC* 5 times (20)

Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing later.

Tail (in BLUE yarn)

Row 1: MR 6 (6)

Row 2: *INC* 6 times (12)

Row 3: *SC, INC* 6 times (18)

Row 4: SC 18 (18)

Row 5: SC 18 (18)

Row 6: SC 18 (18)

Row 7: *SC, DEC* 6 times (12)

Row 8: SC 12 (12)

Row 9: SC 12 (12)

Row 10: SC 12 (12)

Row 11: SC 12 (12)

Row 12: SC 12 (12)

Row 13: SC 12 (12)

Row 14: SC 12 (12)

Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing later.

Body (in CREAM yarn)

Row 1: MR 6 (6)

Row 2: *INC* 6 times (12)

Row 3: *SC, INC* 6 times (18)

Row 4: *SC, SC, INC* 6 times (24)

Row 5: SC 24 (24)

Row 6: SC 24 (24)

Row 7: SC 24 (24)

Row 8: *SC, SC, DEC* 6 times (18)

Row 9: SC 18 (18)

Row 10: *SC, DEC* 6 times (12)

Row 11: SC 12 (12)

Finish off

Assembly

Stuff both the head and body firmly (but not overstuffed!).  Use the tail of yarn you left on the head to sew the head to the body.  

Take the shell and use the tail of yarn on the shell to sew it to the body.  Use a bit of stuffing to fluff up the shell middle before sewing it completely closed.  I place the shell top a row or two below the neck, and make the bottom of the shell almost even with the bottom of the body.

Next, sew on the legs and arms.  I place the arms 3-4 rows down from the neck, and the top of the legs 7-8 rows below the neck.  Just sew them wherever it looks right!

Before you sew the tail to the body, you have to tack it into place to make the swirl.  Stuff the end ball of the tail lightly, but not the shaft of the tail.  Leave that empty. Take a bit of matching blue yarn and tack the ball of the tail to the shaft.  I usually place my tack in the second or third row down of the tail, and roll it down the shaft to a place it looks right.  It should look like the photo above with a straight length left on the tail.  Once the tail is tacked into place for the swirl (sometimes I tack in two or three places to make sure it stays), sew the end of the tail to the back of the squirtle under the shell.  

For the glasses, use the black stiff felt to cut out whatever shape glasses you want.  To add the reflection, cut out strips or triangles of white felt and use felt glue to glue it on.  I let it dry with the strips too large, then trim them down.  Use felt glue or black thread to attach the glasses to your squirtle.  

Voila! Squirtle! 

Papyrus Crochet Pattern!!

I may be a bit behind the ball on this one, but I finally finished my (first) play through of Undertale! I've had quite a few custom orders for patterns based on the game, and I just had to figure out what all the fuss was about. It was pretty epic, if I do say so myself. And who doesn't love Papyrus? I had to make a crochet doll of him!

He's about 14.5" tall when finished.  Leave tails on all pieces for sewing together!  You can always trim tails if you leave too many, but it's a pain in my opinion to add them in later.

Crochet Terms

MR- Magic Ring
SC - Single crochet
INC - Increase
DEC - Decrease
PC - Popcorn Stitch
F/O - Finish off
Sl St - Slip Stitch
DC - Double Crochet
Number in "( )" at the end of each line is the total number of stitches that should be on that row

Materials

3mm crochet hook
Worsted weight yarn (I used Red Heart Super Saver) in white, yellow, blue, black and red
Stuffing (poly-fil)
Tapestry/yarn needle
Scissors
Felt/felt glue for face (optional - can also needle felt)

Head (make one, stuff as you go, WHITE)

1.  MR 6 (6)
2.  INC in each SC (12)
3. SC 1, INC (18)
4. SC 2, INC (24)
5. SC 24
6. SC 24
7. SC 24
8. SC 24
9. SC 24
10. SC 2, DEC (18)
11. SC 18
12. SC 18
13. SC 18
14. SC 18
15. SC 18
16. SC 18
17. SC 1, DEC (12)
18. DEC (6)
19. F/O 

Body (make one, stuff as you go! start with WHITE)

1. MR 6 (6)
2. INC in each SC (12)
3. SC 3, INC 3, SC 3, INC 3 (18)
4. SC 5, INC 4, SC 2, INC, SC 3, INC 4 (24)
5. SC 24
6. SC 3, INC (30)
7. SC 30
8. SC 4, INC (36)
9. SC 36
10. SC 36
11. SC 4, DEC (30)
12. SC 30
13. SC 3, DEC (24)
14. SC 24
15. SC 2, DEC (18)
16. SC 1, DEC (12) ***CHANGE TO YELLOW***
17. SC 12
18. SC 12 ***CHANGE TO WHITE***
19. SC 12
20. SC 12
21. SC 12
22. SC 12
23. SC 12
24. SC 12
25. SC 12
26. F/O

Shoulders (make TWO! start with white, stuff only the ball at the top of the shoulder, not the arm!)

1. MR 4 (4)
2. INC in each SC (8)
3. SC 1, INC (12)
4. SC 2, INC (16)
5. SC 16
6. SC 16
7. SC 16
8. SC 2, DEC (12)
9. SC 1, DEC (8) ***CHANGE TO YELLOW***
10. DEC (4) 
11. SC 4 ***CHANGE TO WHITE***
12. SC 4
13. SC 4
14. SC 4
15. SC 4
16. F/O

Forearms (make TWO! White yarn, no stuffing)

1. CH 23, turn
2. SC 22
3. F/O by securing top to bottom by folding in half 

Hands (make TWO! Start with red yarn, stuffing the glove is optional - I did not.  Photo is of glove with arm attached - I missed taking a picture of the glove alone!)

1. MR 5 (5)
2. INC in each SC (10)
3. SC 10
4. SC 10
5. SC 3, DEC, SC 3, DEC (8)
6. PC, SC 7 (8)
7. SC 8 ***CHANGE TO YELLOW***
8. SC 8
9. SC 8
10. SC 8
11. SC 1, INC (12)
12. SC 1, INC (18) 
13. F/O

Bottom (make one! the bottom is made from one circle sewn to one half sphere, so two parts. Begin with the half sphere - start with blue yarn!)

1. MR 5
2. INC in each SC (10)
3. SC 1, INC (15)
4. SC 2, INC (20)
5. SC 3, INC (25)
6. SC 25
7. SC 25 ***CHANGE TO YELLOW***
8. SC 25
9. SC 25
10.  SL ST to F/O

part two of bottom - yellow yarn

1. MR 5
2. INC in each SC (10)
3. SC 1, INC (15)
4. SC 2, INC (20)
5. SC 3, INC (25)
6. F/O

Sew the yellow circle to the open half of the sphere, stuffing as you sew it shut.  

Boots (boots are made from two pieces each.  Make two of each piece.  Use red yarn! Stuff the first piece below, there is not any stuffing in the "cuff" of the boot- the second piece.  It is open.)

1. MR 5 (5)
2. INC in each SC (10)
3. SC 1, INC (15)
4. SC 15
5. SC 15
6. SC 15
7. SC 15
8. SC 15
9. SC 15
10. SC 1, DEC (10)
11. DEC (5)
12. F/O

part two of boot - use red yarn.  DO NOT stuff - this is an open piece.

1. CH 15, SL ST to first CH to make a circle.
2. SC 15
3. SC 15
4. SC 15
5. SC 15
6. SC 15
7. SL ST to F/O

sew the upper cuff to the lower stuffed shoe, off center, to make a boot.

Legs (make TWO! Use white yarn, and do NOT stuff)

1. MR 4 (4)
2. SC 4
3. SC 4
4. SC 4
5. SC 4
6. SC 4
7. SC 4
8. SC 4
9. SC 4
10. SC 4
11. SC 4
12. SC 4
13. SC 4
14. SC 4
15. SC 4
16. SC 4
17. F/O

Cape (make one, red yarn!  You will be working in rows for this, not in a circle. CH 1 and turn at the end of each row)

1. SC 40
2. SC 25
3. SC 10
4. SC 10
5. SC 10
6. SC 10
7. DEC, SC 6, DEC (8)
8. SC 8
9. SC 8
10. DEC, SC 4, DEC (6)
11. SC 6
12. DEC, SC 2, DEC (4)
13. SC 4
14. DEC, DEC (2)
15. SC 2
16. DEC (1) ***At this point, you will NOT turn.  Continue down the side of the triangle, to the side of the cape that only has on row on the cape tie - not the side with the thicker tie)
17. SC down side (should be about 14 SC)
18. SC 15 to thicken the "cape tie" and make it the same thickness as the other side
19. F/O

Assembly

I usually start with the limbs, and work my way to the larger pieces!

For the hands and arms:  Take the forearm, and place the end without the tail down into the cuff of the glove.  I try to place it all the way down to where the yellow and red meet.  Take a bit of yellow scrap yarn and sew it into place.  Then you can fold the cuff of the glove down.

Next, take the shoulder piece, and sew the forearm top to the bottom of the upper arm.  You don't want these to overlap at all.  You want to do more of a whip stitch with them side by side to make a "joint" so his arm can bend.

For the boots and legs:  You should have previously sewn the boot cuff to the bottom of the boot, if not do it now as stated in the "boot" section above.  Now you can take a leg, and place the leg inside the boot as far as you can.  I place the end without a tail inside the boot, so I can sew the leg to the bottom later.  Using some black scrap yarn, sew two stitches to look like laces on the front of the boot "cuff", using these two stitches to hold the leg into the shoe.

Next, I usually sew the legs to the bottom before attaching them to the main body to make it a bit easier to handle.  The legs should go on either side of the rounded half sphere, on the bottom.  Once those are attached, sew the abdomen to the very middle of his bottom on the flat side

For the body: Sew the shoulders on either side of the body.  The body should have an oval shape, make sure the shoulders are on the narrow part of the oval, so the long side is his front and back.  .

For the head and cape:  Papyrus's head should go, of course, on top of his body.  I usually place the head a little farther forward instead of in the direct middle.  The cape is where it can be a little tricky. I center the back of the cape behind Papyrus' head on his back, and wrap one side of the cape tie around his neck and stitch it into place.  Then, I take the other tie, wrap it around and fold it under the other side and tack it down with a few stitches.

Lastly, his face!  You can needle felt it on, but I just used the regular craft felt I had lying around and some glue.  I just eyeballed it off a few Papyrus photos I found online.

And you're done!  I made both a "regular" and "flirty" Papryus face - I'm in love with them!!  Have fun making your own Papyrus!

This pattern is for personal use only, and is a fan made creation - not an officially licensed pattern. 

Eevee Amigurumi Pattern

Hey everyone!  I'm really proud of this pattern, it's taken me two entire weeks to get it right.  Eevee is my favorite and I wasn't very happy with any of the patterns I could find for her, so I made my own!  She stands about 8" high without the ears, and 10" long.

The following pattern reads as such:

SC - Single Crochet
DC - Double Crochet
TC - Triple Crochet
DEC - Decrease
INC - Increase
F/O - Finish off
MR - Magic Ring

The number in the "(x)" is the complete number in the round or row.  Work in rounds unless indicated otherwise.

This is a bit more of an advanced crochet project, with double and triple crochet stitches.

You will need:
Brown yarn
Cream yarn
Crochet hook
Yarn needle
Brush (I use a pet brush)
scissors
Needle felting tools and wool for details (optional)
Hair straightener (optional)


I used Red Heart Super Saver yarn for this project and a 3.75mm crochet hook.

Head

1.      MR 6 (6)

2.      INC (12)

3.      SC, INC (18)

4.      SC 2, INC (24)

5.      SC 3, INC (30)

6.      SC 4, INC (36)

7.      SC 36 (36)

8.      SC 36 (36)

9.      SC 36 (36)

10.  SC 36 (36)

11.  SC 36 (36)

12.  SC 8, INC, SC, INC, SC 14, ICS, SC, INC, SC 8 (40)

13.  SC 40 (40)

14.  SC 11, INC, SC 6, INC, SC 2, INC, SC 6 , INC, SC 11 (44)

15.  SC 44 (44)

16.  SC 11, DEC, SC 18, DEC, SC 11 (42)

17.  SC 5, DEC, SC 5, DEC, SC 4, DEC, SC 2, DEC, SC 4, DEC, SC 5, DEC, SC 5 (36)

18.  SC 4, DEC (30)

19.  SC 3, DEC (24)
20. SC 2. DEC (18)

21.  SC, DEC (12)

22.  DEC (6)

F/O

--------------------------

Ears (make two)

1.      MR 4 (4)

2.      SC, INC (6)

3.      SC 2, INC (8)

4.      SC 3, INC (10)

5.      SC 10 (10)

6.      SC 4, INC (12)

7.      SC 5, INC (14)

8.      SC 14 (14)

9.      SC 6, INC (16)

10.  SC 7, INC (18)

11.  SC 18 (18)

12.  SC 7, DEC (16)

13.  SC 6, DEC (14)

14.  SC 5, DEC (12)

15.  SC 4, DEC (10)

16.  SC 10 (10)

F/O.  Leave a long tail for sewing.

---------------------------

Tail 

Begin with brown yarn.

1.      MR 6 (6)

2.      INC (12)

3.      SC, INC (18)

4.      SC 2, INC (24)

5.      SC 3, INC (30)

6.      SC 4, INC (36)

7.      SC 5, INC (42)

8.      SC 42 (42)

9.      SC 42 (42)

10.  SC 42 (42)

11.  SC 5, DEC (36)

12.  SC 36 (36)

13.  SC 4, DEC (30)

14.  SC 30 (30)

15.  SC, DC, TC, DC, SC (SIX TIMES) (30) – CHANGE TO CREAM YARN IN LAST CH

16.  DC, SC 2, DC, TC (SIX TIMES) (30)

17.  SC 3, DEC (24)

18.  SC 24 (24)

19.  SC 2, DEC (18)

20.  SC 4, DEC (15)

21.  SC 3, DEC (12)

22.  SC 4, DEC (10)

23.  SC 3, DEC (8)

24.  SC 2, DEC (6)

25.  SC, DEC (4)

F/O

What you're looking for in the SC, DC, TC rounds is shown below:

Eevee doesn't have a straight line on her tail, but a wiggly one!

-----------------------------

Front Legs (Make one leg A and one leg B)

1.       MR 6 (6)

2.       INC (12)

3.       SC, INC (18)

4.       SC 18 (18)

5.       SC 18 (18)

6.       SC 6, DEC, SC 2, DEC, SC 6 (16)

7.       SC 16 (16)

8.       SC 16 (16)

9.       SC 16 (16)

10.   SC 16 (16)

11.   SC 16 (16)

This is where the pattern differentiates for leg A and B of the front legs.  Continue below to step 12 for leg A.  You will now work in rows instead of rounds.

12.   SC 7 (7)

13.   DEC, SC 5 (6)

14.   DEC, SC, DEC (4)

F/O and leave a long tail for sewing.

Leg B. Repeat rounds 1-11 for leg A.  Continue to step 12 below for leg B.  You will not work in rows instead of rounds.

12. SC 15 (15)

13.  DEC, SC 5 (6)

14. DEC, SC, DEC (4)

F/O and leave a long tail for sewing

--------------------------------

Back Legs

There will be two back legs, one of each of the following (leg A and leg B).

1.       MR 6 (6)

2.       2 SC IN EACH SC (12)

3.       SC 1, INC (18)

4.       SC 18

5.       SC 18

6.       SC 6, DEC, SC 2, DEC, SC 6 (16)

7.       SC 6, DEC, SC 7, INC (16)

8.       SC 6, DEC, SC 7, INC (16)

9.       SC 6, DEC, SC 7, INC (16)

10.   SC 6, DEC, SC 7, INC (16)

11.   SC 3, INC (20)

12.   SC 4, INC (24)

13.   SC 5, INC (28)

This is where the pattern differentiates for each leg.  Continue to round 14 below for leg A

14.   SC 8, INC, SC 8, INC, SC 6 (26)

Do not chain one when turning for the following rows, begin in the 2^nd chain from hook to begin with a DEC

15.   DEC, SC 2, INC, SC 3, INC, SC 3 (13)

16.   DEC, SC 4, INC, SC 4, DEC (12)

17.   DEC, SC, DEC, SC 2, DEC, SC, DEC (8)

18.   DEC, DEC, SC 2, DEC (5)

F/O and leave a long tail for sewing

Leg B

Repeat rows 1-13 above, the same as was for leg A.  Continue to round 14 below for leg B.

14. SC 2, INC, SC 2 (6)

Do not chain one when turning for the following rows, begin in the 2^nd chain from hook to begin with a DEC

19.   DEC, SC 2, INC, SC 3, INC, SC 3 (13)

20.   DEC, SC 4, INC, SC 4, DEC (12)

21.   DEC, SC, DEC, SC 2, DEC, SC, DEC (8)

22.   DEC, DEC, SC 2, DEC (5)

F/O and leave a long tail for sewing

---------------------------

Body

1.       MR6 (6)

2.       2 SC in each SC (12)

3.       SC 1, INC (18)

4.       SC 2, INC (24)

5.       SC 3, INC (30)

6.       SC4, INC (36)

7.       SC 36

8.       SC 36

9.       SC 36

10.   SC 36

11.   SC 36

12.   SC 14, DEC, SC 4, DEC, SC 14 (34)

13.   SC 34

14.   SC 10, DEC, SC 2, DEC, SC 2, DEC, SC 2, DEC, SC 10 (30)

15.   SC 30

16.   SC 30

17.   SC 30

18.   SC 30

19.   SC 30

20.   SC 30

21.   SC 30

22.   SC 3, DEC (24)

23.   SC 2, DEC (18)

24.   SC 1, DEC (12)

25.   DEC (6)

26.   F/O

------------------------

Assembly

I like to do my needle felting while the doll is still in pieces.  I did this step before sewing anything together.  This is optional.  You can always do felt piece and glue them, or embroider your face.

Use the photos of the finished product to help you with placement.

Sew the ears on to the head.  The ears should be flattened out instead of round.  If you need to, a very quick press (literally, a second) on very low heat iron will set it right if it doesn't want to flatten.  Hold the bottom halves together flat when you sew it to the head to help.

Now sew the legs onto the body.  I begin with the back legs.  You will notice that there is a "thigh bump" on the back leg.  That should go on the outside of the body.  Sew both in place.  The same is true of the front legs, with a lip on the outside of the leg.  Place that part on the side of the body and the rest underneath (see photos).  Pinning these in place before sewing is extremely helpful.

Attach the tail, and then the head.  The head should be attached with 3/4 of it resting on the body, and 1/4 of it hanging over, so the doll will stand on its own.


The neck fringe

The neck fringe or "poof" will be done in cream yarn.  Cut a 12" or so length of the cream yarn.  Then you will be cutting 30 or so smaller 6" lengths of yarn.  I simply wrap the yarn around something (in this case, my wallet) and make one cut so they are all even.

  


Lay your longest piece out flat, then slip knot all of the shorter pieces onto it.

It will look like this when you're done!

Now take your brush and brush out all of the smaller pieces to make them poof.  You will lose what seems like a lot of yarn at this point, but it's ok.  Do not poof out the ends of your longest piece!

Tie it around your eevee's neck.  Then brush out more, including the ends of the longest piece.

At this point I use a hair straightener to quickly zap out the squigglier pieces of yarn.  Brush out more to get the ultimate poof!  Then I use scissors to trim it up to the desired length.  If yours isn't poofy enough to your liking, you can always add a second layer on the top to ultra poof!

And that's it!